Hooded eyes can come from genetics, aging or skin laxity, and while they can make lining your eyes a challenge, they don’t have to be the bane of your existence. From easy makeup tricks to in-office treatments, experts weigh in on the most effective ways to brighten and open up the eyes.
Featured Experts
- Tim Quinn is a celebrity makeup artist and cofounder and CEO of Halo42
- Reza Momeni, MD is a board-certified plastic surgeon in Berkeley Heights, NJ
- Julie Russak, MD is a board-certified dermatologist in New York
- David Schlessinger, MD is a board-certified oculoplastic surgeon in Woodbury, New York
Makeup That Opens the Eye
Celebrity makeup artist Tim Quinn says the quickest way to lift a hooded eye is often in the liner and lashes. Rather than a heavy cat eye, he recommends building liner outward along the lash line and focusing thickness at the outer corners. “Adding depth at the lash line, lashes a little thicker on the outer edges, and softly shadowing the hood gives lift,” he explains. A touch of shimmer at the inner corners helps brighten, while concealer angled toward the brow tip can create the illusion of an instant eye-lift.
Sarah Creal Beauty Eyes Up Kajal Eyeliner in Rich Cocoa ($32) glides on smoothly, and the softer brown shade defines without the harsh lines that can make hooded lids appear heavier.
Skin Care’s Temporary Tightening
While no cream can replace surgery, the right formulas can provide day-of tightening and color correction. Berkeley Heights, NJ plastic surgeon Reza Momeni, MD tells his patients to start with the simplest option: “If something simple, straightforward, non-risky and inexpensive makes you happy, that is your solution. Start with firming creams before you and I try surgery.” Many of these formulas contain ingredients that cause a temporary contraction of the skin or blood vessels, helping lids look smoother and less heavy, if only for a few hours.
The updated Peter Thomas Roth Instant FIRMx Eye Easy-Wear Formula ($38) is built to deliver that instant tightening effect without chalky residue or pilling, so it layers more smoothly under makeup.
A Neurotoxin Nonsurgical Lift
When hooding is tied to muscle activity and brow position, neurotoxins can be a subtle but powerful fix. New York dermatologist Julie Russak, MD explains that the orbicularis oculi and frontalis muscles play a big role in how the lid sits, and over time, the balance shifts. “Targeted Botox injections can rebalance muscle forces around the lid and brow,” she says. “By addressing overactivity in depressor muscles, the brow can be positioned into a higher, more supportive place, reducing the downward pull that contributes to hooding.” She notes that beyond softening lines, carefully placed neurotoxin is really about shifting the dynamic between muscles to create lift.
Dr. Momeni adds that for natural “frowners,” even a small dose between the brows and at the crow’s-feet can keep the brow from sagging into the upper lid. For those with mild hooding, this alone can make the eyes look more open.
Skin-Pinch Blepharoplasty
For patients who need more than injectables but aren’t ready for a full surgical procedure, Woodbury, NY oculoplastic surgeon David Schlessinger, MD often recommends a skin-pinch bleph (or blepharoplasty). This targeted technique removes only a thin strip of excess skin without disturbing the underlying fat or muscle. “A skin pinch may be enough to improve appearance or even vision in the right candidate,” he explains. “It’s less invasive than a traditional blepharoplasty, but it can still make the eyes look brighter and less heavy.” Recovery is typically quicker and easier than with a full eyelid surgery, making it a popular choice for younger patients with mild laxity or those looking for a subtle refresh.
Blepharoplasty + a Brow Lift
“When your eyelids hang so low that they block the pupil, a blepharoplasty may be required to restore vision. That’s a functional blepharoplasty,” explains Dr. Schlessinger. “Although it will improve appearance, the main goal is to improve sight. A cosmetic blepharoplasty, on the other hand, is focused on aesthetics and often involves adjusting fat to reduce bulging or restore fullness.” Often, he notes, the procedure is combined with a brow lift or other facial rejuvenation techniques to get the best result.
Dr. Momeni echoes the importance of addressing the brow as well as the lid. “More than half the time that I’m doing an upper eyelid lift, we’re also correcting the brow. You get much better results when you treat both,” he says. Without this dual approach, patients sometimes find that their eyelids still appear heavy even after surgery.
