“Urea is one of those unsung hero ingredients in dermatology,” says Austin, TX dermatologist Hallie McDonald. It’s naturally found in the skin’s barrier as part of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), but levels decline with age, says Southlake, TX and Monroe, LA, dermatologist Janine Hopkins, MD. Dr. McDonald notes that this decline is part of the reason mature skin tends to feel drier, rougher and less elastic. To help remedy these changes, dermatologists recommend adding products with urea to your skin-care routine.
Featured experts
- Janine Hopkins, MD is a dermatologist based in Southlake, TX and Monroe, LA
- Dr. Sue Ellen Cox is a board-certified dermatologist in Chapel Hill, NC
- Hallie McDonald, MD is a board-certified dermatologist in Austin, TX and the co-founder of ERLY
What makes urea a great ingredient for mature skin?
Mature skin tends to need both hydration and smoothing, says Dr. McDonald, and that’s where urea comes in. “For aging skin that tends to become drier, thinner and more prone to rough texture, urea works two ways: it’s both a humectant—drawing water into the skin—and a gentle keratolytic, meaning it softens and smooths rough, flaky patches,” explains Dr. Hopkins. “This dual action helps restore suppleness and reduce that crepey texture we often see in mature skin.”
The benefits of urea in skin care
“For women over 50, I recommend daily hydration and gentle exfoliation with a body cream containing urea,” Chapel Hill, NC dermatologist Sue Ellen Cox, MD, previously told us. “Urea naturally attracts water and softens excess keratin in the outer skin layers, leading to soft, hydrated skin,” she explains.
“At lower concentrations (around two to 10 percent), urea hydrates by attracting and holding water in the skin. At higher concentrations (10 to 20 percent), it helps smooth roughness by loosening the ‘glue’ that binds dead skin cells together,” explains Dr. McDonald. “I often compare it to a good houseguest—it doesn’t just bring extra water to the party, it tidies up while it’s there.”
Dr. Hopkins says urea can help smooth fine lines on the face caused by dryness, while in body care, it has the power to tackle dry, scaly areas on the body that don’t respond well to typical moisturizers. Urea is also soothing as it can help reduce itching and tightness that can accompany dryness with age, says Dr. Hopkins. Additionally, “by breaking down thickened skin, urea also helps other active ingredients—like peptides, retinoids or antioxidants—work more effectively.”
Dr. McDonald agrees adding that “For patients already using serums with hydrating or firming ingredients, layering a urea cream on top can help those actives penetrate more effectively while giving the skin an extra drink of water.” Beyond mature skin, urea-based products are also especially great for anyone with keratosis pilaris or thick callused areas, she says.
Products with urea to try
