Expert-Approved Ways to Upgrade Your Skin-Care Routine and Slow Signs of Aging

• Gregory Keller, MD, a board-certified plastic surgeon based in Los Angeles
• Jessica Weiser, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York 
• Melanie Palm, MD, MBA, board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon based in San Diego, CA 
• Vanessa Boudewyns, PhD, a Public Health Research Scientist and skin-care blogger (@goalstogetglowing)
• Veronica Webb, a supermodel and writer

In an overwhelming skin-care market where new launches hit the scene every day, it can be challenging to discern which products are worth the hype. But when it comes down to it, science doesn’t lie. Formulas backed by science and rigorous clinical testing are the cream of the crop when visible results are the goal. And then there’s the bonus a multitasking formula offers, because who has time to apply several different serums? It’s 2025, days fly by freakishly fast and modern skin-care innovations grant us the luxury of aging gracefully. Here, leading doctors in dermatology and plastic surgery share their thoughts on skin aging and ways to slow it down without going under the knife. Plus, we hear from two skin-care gurus who share a passion for the same age-defying product.

Though signs of aging are largely dependent on genetics, lifestyle habits, exposure to environmental damage and more, Los Angeles plastic surgeon Gregory Keller, MD says they typically begin in a person’s late 20s or early 30s. “You may notice frown lines between your brows that don’t go away after relaxation. Eyelid wrinkles may appear more prominent with expression. Dark spots from sun exposure may be present.” 

As you enter your 40s, a loss of elasticity may become apparent. “Firmness and tightness diminish as collagen decreases, and a loss of elasticity can reduce epidermal thickness, resulting in wrinkles,” Dr. Keller says. “Weight loss and medications for weight loss, aka ‘Ozempic face,’ can accelerate these processes.” Once a person reaches their 50s and beyond, skin becomes looser and even less elastic. “Lines and wrinkles become more prominent at rest without facial expression,” adds Dr. Keller. “Dark spots and sun damage become pronounced. Pores become larger and skin looks rougher.”

Public Health Research Scientist and skin-care blogger, Vanessa Boudewyns, PhD, noticed her skin changing in her mid-to-late 30s. “I started noticing signs of skin laxity, like more visible nasolabial folds and a slight downturn at the corners of my mouth. I also noticed more pronounced static wrinkles on my forehead, 11s and crow’s-feet.” For supermodel and writer Veronica Webb, the first signs were dullness, laxity and discoloration, which she contributed to sun damage. “I can’t take back the golden era of the ‘70s and ‘80s before sunscreen was a thing, but I can definitely seize the day going forward.”

According to New York dermatologist Jessica Weiser, MD, the upper face—between the brows, on the forehead and around the eyes—tends to show wrinkles first because it has the most muscles used to show emotion and expression. “This is especially true for the delicate skin around the eyes due to numerous factors including squinting or smiling, eye rubbing from sensitivity or irritation, makeup application and removal, and generally thinner more fragile skin quality,” she explains.

Another early-onset area is the perioral region, says San Diego dermatologist Melanie D. Palm, MD. “This area around the mouth and lips is prone to aging faster, especially in women,” explains the doctor. “On average, women speak about 2.5 times more words per day than men. This, along with smiling, laughing, eating and sipping, means the perioral area experiences high repetitive movements, which can lead to accelerated signs of aging. Women’s skin is also statistically thinner than men’s because we do not have thick terminal hairs in the perioral area, making us more prone to signs of aging around the lips and the mouth. You’ll often see vertical lip wrinkles, or ‘smoker’s lines,’ and deeper nasolabial folds in people who have experienced collagen and fat loss in their lips.”

All three doctors interviewed here agree that skin laxity and volume loss are the most common complaints among their patients. “This makes sense because these issues are more difficult to treat and often require a combination of treatments or modalities,” says Dr. Palm. Other frequent concerns are large pores, dark spots, wrinkles, and dark circles under the eyes, adds Dr. Keller.

Though sunscreen is an obvious preventive measure, it’s remains under-utilized in many people’s anti-aging toolkit. “Regular sun protection is a non-negotiable for me,” says Dr. Palm. “This includes wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher daily and reapplying every 90 minutes if outdoors, seeking shade whenever possible, avoiding the sun during peak hours, wearing wide-brimmed hats and UPF clothing, and more.”

Another gold standard in the anti-aging department is retinol, though newer ingredient innovations are giving it a run for its money. “While retinols were the standby, they influenced the more mature stem cells that maintained the moisture and structure of the skin,” Dr. Keller explains. “A more effective and modern treatment nowadays is to use the natural peptide that defends the skin, defensins, to constantly make new stem cells and new skin.”

The foundation of any good skin-care routine is cleansing. “Many patients find it easy to cleanse in the morning and are often lazier at bedtime with their skin care,” says Dr. Weiser. “However, it is crucial to ‘wash off the day’ at bedtime because there will be debris, environmental pollutants, makeup, sunscreen and more on the skin at the end of the day.” Dr. Keller recommends a soap-free cleanser like DefenAge’s 1-Step Multi-Cleanse. “It cleans and moisturizes the skin, removes makeup without irritation and renews the microbiome of the skin with prebiotics.”

Though each person’s skin-care routine looks different depending on their age, skin type and concerns, Dr. Palm’s morning regimen recommendation generally consists of a gentle cleanser, antioxidant serum, moisturizer and SPF. At night, because our skin goes into repair mode while we sleep, she suggests optimizing the repair process by incorporating a formulation with defensins.

“A defensin is a naturally occurring peptide that ‘defends’ the skin from injury, inflammation and infection,” Dr. Keller explains. “It is as powerful for renewing the skin as the peptide Ozempic is to diminish appetite. Normally, our skin is renewed by the basal cell, which is a stem cell that causes the skin to turn over, renew keratinocytes and renew the skin on a regular basis. The problem with that is that the basal cells in our skin age with us: they undergo maturation and can undergo mutations, which can result in skin cancer.”

For Dr. Weiser, defensin-based skin care has been an excellent treatment option for herself and her patients. “As an alternative to retinol, which some patients cannot tolerate or do not wish to use due to sun sensitivity or irritation, defensin-mediated skin care provides excellent antiaging benefits without the potential side effects.” They’re also a great post-procedure tool. “Following laser and energy-based device procedures, defensins speed the healing process and further improve results by synergistically boosting skin cell turnover and regeneration, in addition the device-initiated collagen production. Skin is brighter, smoother and more hydrated due to faster cell renewal.”

Dr. Palm says the two most dramatic skin changes she sees when patients use defensins is a thickening of the epidermis (the top layer of skin) and a reduction in hyperpigmentation. “By thickening the epidermis and improving the overall health of our skin, we can delay some textural changes and laxity that often require a surgical intervention when more significant,” she explains. “With a defensin-focused regimen, the skin looks plump and more radiant with continued use. I’ve also found defensins to be especially effective when used in conjunction with microneedling with platelet-derived products and light/laser products.”

All three doctors interviewed here recommend the DefenAge 8-in-1 BioSerum, which contains the highest concentration of defensins and provides a comprehensive anti-aging solution in one step thanks to its multi-serum formulation. “DefenAge has definitely improved my patients’ skin,” says Dr. Keller. “Clinical evidence supports its use more than any other skin-care regimen. DefenAge has more than 30 clinical articles by independent dermatologists and plastic surgeons demonstrating its efficacy. The most comprehensive study was in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. This was a double-blind, multicenter, randomized study with histology and 3-D objective assessment techniques—perhaps the only study of this kind on any cosmeceutical. It demonstrated increased skin thickness, decreased pore size, improved hydration, skin retraction and tightness, and diminished wrinkles.”

Dr. Boudewyns is also a big fan of the 8-in-1 BioSerum, which she first learned about in a 2017 issue of NewBeauty. “The serum’s mechanism of action felt complementary, not redundant, to my retinoid, it addressed multiple skin concerns, and the early clinical results were compelling,” she says. “After using it and seeing good results for both myself and my mom, it became a staple. Overall, my skin feels healthier when I use it, like the best version of itself. It is bouncier, less reactive and brighter. Over time, it has contributed to thicker, firmer-feeling skin. It also delivers added benefits, which makes the ‘8-in-1’ name feel accurate. For example, I tolerate retinoids at various strengths with less irritation, likely because my skin is more resilient. When I get a pimple, it helps the red marks fade faster. I also appreciate that I can use it even when my skin is irritated. No product is universally effective, but between the published data and the results I have seen in myself, my mom, my brother, aunts and friends, it has earned a long-term spot in my routine.”

Webb swears by the product as well. “Simplicity and science-backed skin care are my cardinal rules,” she says. “I can’t mess with a 14-step routine. I can’t keep all those bottles straight and I don’t want to invest time and money in an overcomplicated system. Three steps—cleanse, moisturizer, serum—and you’re out. That’s why I love DefenAge because it just works at home or when I’m on the road. I don’t think any other formula has the same cystine-rich peptides for that glass-skin effect.”