Oligopeptides have come across our desk quite a bit recently. Since the term is fairly new to the general public, but not necessarily to skin-care formulators, we thought a 101 lesson on the multi-benefit ingredient is just what beauty lovers need. Although the term is likely new to you, the ingredient is in some of your favorite products from K18, SkinMedica and more. Learn all about oligopeptides from the experts and stock up on products packed with these powerhouses.
Featured experts
- Joel Schlessinger, MD and Daniel Schlessinger, MD are board-certified dermatologists in Omaha, NE
- Kelly Dobos is a cosmetic chemist
- James Bartholomeusz is the inventor and co-founder of KeraFactor
- Katie Brenner is a hairstylist and the Global Artistic Director of OliG
What are oligopeptides?
First, let’s familiarize ourselves with peptides. “Peptides are small chains of amino acids that act like messengers, telling skin cells to do things like make more collagen, heal damage or calm inflammation. Within the skin, they help improve skin texture, reduce wrinkles and support a healthier, more youthful appearance,” explains cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos. “The prefix in the name of a peptide describes the length of the amino acid chain. A dipeptide has two, whereas a tripeptide has three. Oligopeptides can have up to 20 amino acids and polypeptides are greater than 20 amino acids,” she explains.
“In our practice, we often see these ingredients in advanced skin-care formulations because they can act as cellular messengers, essentially telling skin cells to perform specific functions like producing more collagen or improving barrier function,” says Omaha, NE dermatologist Daniel Schlessinger, MD. Fellow Omaha, NE dermatologist Joel Schlessinger, MD notes that a key advantage of oligopeptides is that they’re generally well-tolerated and don’t cause irritation the way some other active ingredients can. Dobos notes that “Most peptides used in cosmetics are synthetic, and they’ve been carefully designed to mimic natural peptides found in the body.”
The benefits of oligopeptides in skin care
“The benefits of oligopeptides are quite impressive, which is why we’re seeing them in more professional-grade products,” says Dr. Joel Schlessinger. “For skin care, oligopeptides can stimulate collagen and elastin production, helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They also support the skin’s natural repair processes and can improve hydration by strengthening the skin barrier. Some oligopeptides have anti-inflammatory properties, making them useful for sensitive or reactive skin.”
Skin-care products with oligopeptides
The benefits of oligopeptides in hair care
“In hair care, oligopeptides work differently but are equally beneficial. They can penetrate the hair shaft to strengthen it from within, reducing breakage and improving elasticity,” says Dr. Joel Schlessinger. “We’ve observed that certain oligopeptides can help protect hair from environmental damage and heat styling, while others may support scalp health by improving circulation and potentially encouraging healthier hair growth.” Basically, they play a key role in building proteins (such as keratin), which are essential for strong, healthy hair, says nventor and co-founder of KeraFactor James Bartholomeusz.
Unlike skin, hair follicles offer a more direct path for peptides to reach deeper layers, which makes them more effective at targeting the root causes of thinning and damage, says Dobos. Bartholomeusz says oligopeptides have the power to actively stimulate follicles in both bulge and bulb areas, strengthen hair through keratin secretion and rebuild scalp health. Not only do oligopeptides penetrate hair to reinforce weak strands, they also smooth and protect the outside, says hairstylist and Global Artistic Director of OliG, Katie Brenner, which helps give hair a healthier, shinier look.
Hair-care products with oligopeptides
