Once upon a time, skin care was all about what you put on your face. Today, it’s about what you tell your skin to do. Thanks to a new class of science-driven ingredients, we can now send signals that instruct our skin to hydrate, rebuild collagen, repair damage and even act younger. Call it the rise of signaling skin care, and it’s changing everything.
Exosomes: Cell Whisperers
Think of exosomes like tiny delivery trucks packed with potent packages. They don’t just sit on top of your skin; they tell your cells what to do. “Exosomes act like messengers between cells, delivering signals that may encourage collagen production and help calm visible signs of inflammation,” says Beverly Hills, CA facial plastic surgeon Paul Nassif, MD. Often applied after treatments like microneedling or lasers, exosomes can help speed healing, boost the results of the treatment and reduce redness. Want to incorporate exosomes into your routine? Some companies, like Dermalogica with its Exo Booster, are now bringing these professional concepts into at-home treatments to help extend post- procedure results. Formulations vary, with sources that can include plant, bacteria, and human- and animal-derived exosomes, but all are part of the growing wave of regenerative skin care. “We use an exosome booster derived from lactobacillus, a skin-friendly bacterium that helps support the body’s own repair signals,” says Robert J. Bianchini, MD, vice president of technology and development at Dermalogica.
Polynucleotides: DNA Boosters
It may sound like a strange beauty punchline, but salmon sperm, aka PDRN or polynucleotides, is at the heart of one of the most promising ingredients in regenerative skin care. These DNA fragments, often derived from salmon sperm, are packed with information that helps skin heal, hydrate and bounce back. “What I love about salmon-derived DNA fragments is that they’re sustainable, highly purified and work beautifully with other treatments,” says New York dermatologist Elaine Kung, MD. “When used post-procedure, like after microneedling or lasers, they help with skin repair, texture, hydration and even redness.” In-office, they’re often delivered into the skin with microneedling devices or pens. While injectables like Korea’s Rejuran Healer are already popular abroad, topical options in the U.S., such as LúmEnvy by PDO Max, combine PDRN with glutathione, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide to help promote a glassy, hydrated look.
Nanofat: Micro-Marvels
Biotech doesn’t have to come from a lab. Sometimes it comes from your own body. Nanofat is a filtered version of your body’s own fat, refined down into a liquid that’s rich in regenerative cells and healing factors. “Nanofat is processed into a very fine, cell-rich suspension that can be injected into the dermis, and in some practices, applied to skin immediately after laser or microneedling treatments,” explains Dr. Nassif. “Early studies and clinical experience suggest it may improve crepey eyelids, dark circles and pigment irregularities.” Experts say the benefits of nanofat outlast hyaluronic acid fillers and can also improve skin quality.
Growth Factors: Collagen Cues
Growth factors are naturally occurring proteins that send signals to skin cells, telling them to repair damage and make more collagen. “Our skin is designed to respond to these biological cues,” explains Miami dermatologist Martha Viera, MD. “Growth factors help stimulate fibroblasts [collagen-making cells] to produce collagen, repair damage and improve skin resilience.” You’ll find them in serums, but in the office, Newton, MA plastic surgeon Joseph A. Russo, MD uses Airessence, a professional-grade regenerative treatment powered by platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF). PDGF helps heal skin by signaling fibroblasts to create new support structures. “This is one of the most powerful regenerative tools we’re working with,” says Dr. Russo. “It can be used with microneedling or energy-based devices for tissue remodeling.”
Secretomes: Super Serums
Secretomes, a mix of exosomes, peptides, growth factors and other repair signals, are making their way from the lab to luxury skin care. They work like exosomes but carry a broader range of messengers that tell skin to repair itself. One example is PROVOQUE, a physician-dispensed topical serum derived from lab-grown, human skin progenitor cells to deliver the full spectrum of these signals. Acorn Biolabs takes it in a personalized direction, banking and freezing clients’ hair follicles to create custom secretome serums. “Everyone should run right now and have their hair follicles pulled, because you will never be as young as you are today,” says Vancouver oculoplastic surgeon Jean Carruthers, MD. The goal isn’t just a glowier complexion, it’s skin that acts like it did years ago.
Disclaimer: Many of the treatments mentioned are emerging and currently supported by limited clinical data.
Signal Boost
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